Sunday, 10 August 2014

Jukung


Jukung are small yachts. They used to have significant practical functions. Now, Cocos Malays race them. They also are important symbols.



Jukung in the old copra processing shed.


Cocos Jukung are whaleboats, not outriggers

Cocos Malays have their own kind of yacht called jukung (also rendered "jukong"). Although its practical uses are limited, it still possesses, I think, an important symbolic role. 

On the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, the jukung used to be the preferred mode of transport across the atoll. Unlike in Indonesia, where the term "jukung" usually refers to a sailing boat with outrigger/s, on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, the "jukung" has no outrigger. Indeed, its design could be equated with what, in the European tradition, is called a "whaleboat".



Viewed from the outside, the jukung has a white bottom (hull), over that are blue and yellow stripes, and then the top of the side (gunwale) has a varnished wood finish. It has a single and a detachable steering plank (rudder) at the back.  It also possesses only one upright pole  (mast) to hold up the sails. Jukung are of varying lengths.

Sizes of jukung

Preparing for race 2014
Jukung come in different sizes. Smaller ones, especially those designed for a single sailor, are called jukung kolek. The jukung club lists the following numbers of  jukung: 16 jukung in the 19'2"-19'8";  7 in the 19'7" - 19'20" [sic.] range; 14 in the 20'1"-20'3"; 12 in the 20'4"-20'6" range; and 2 in the 20'7"-open range. Thus, a total of 51 racing jukung were listed; all around the 19-20 foot range. The picture on the left shows a racing jukung about to head off in a race after Hari Raya













Deteriorating jukung and the shed to house them.
Additionally, many jukung are lying around Home Island, gradually disintegrating. I think this a matter of consternation for many, so the safe storage of jukung has become an important issue for locals. Indeed, when I write this in August 2014, a large shed was being constructed to house them, as depicted on the right.
 Like boats in other traditions, each jukung has its own name.


3 uses for jukung


1. Transport

Jukung have had three main uses.  First, the jukung used to be used for transport (people, coconuts, etc.) around the atoll. The image on the right, for example appears to depict a coconut collector ("nutter") taking a sack of nuts from his jukung to be processed on Home Island.

2. Hunting and fishing

Second, the jukung was used for hunting (spearing fish; sailing to Keeling Island to catch booby birds, catching turtles) and fishing (both line and net fishing).  It was not uncommon, for example, for men to sail a jukung, alone, to Keeling Island and sail back navigating by the stars. Haji Wahiib, for example, remembers waiting at night for his dad to return from Keeling Island.  The photo below seems to depict fishermen returning with a haul.
Plenty of fish in a jukung. Photo courtesy of John Clunies Ross

For various reasons, its first two uses have become obsolete. The coconut industry collapsed in the 1980s; Booby Bird has been banned by Parks Australia; turtles are now considered unfit for eating (i.e. they are thought to be haram). More importantly, for practical sailing, the jukung has been replaced by the internationally favorite small boat, the metal dinghy, otherwise known as "tinny" in Australian English. As a result, many jukung lay rotting around Home Island when I visited in 2014. 

3. Jukung racing
Spectators watch the 1st day of racing


The third use of jukung continues to the present; namely racing after Hari Raya. In 2014 There were five days of racing using progressively larger sails and boats. The races lasted from about 9am-10am. I have written about the races in my blog on Hari Raya .

A small amount of prize money was available for each race. Some of this had been donated by the shire. Some had been raised by the jukung club. The races were competitive, keenly fought affairs. I've put up my shonky recording of a tight finish on YouTube.

These races hold a special place for the community on Home Island. They could be compared to the The Boat Race for Oxford and Cambridge Universities. Nevertheless, according to local residents, the number of competing boats declines as the years go by. 

Fundraising for the jukung club

Market under cyclone shelter

As stated, some of the prize money for the racing had been raised through the jukung club.  They put on a market on Saturday, June 7, under the cyclone shelter. 


The till, manned by Nek Fifi and Nek Sofia
Wives prepared food for sale in plastic containers. Aside from this, Nek Su made some spears. In total, several thousand dollars were raised.
Fish'n'chips tastes better when fried on a wood fire

Symbolism of jukung

Yellow and blue stripes

I'm not sure if this is something that Cocos Malays explicitly dwell upon, but it seems that the jukung symbolism encapsulates much of what is important.


Yellow and blue strips are painted below the gunwale on every jukung I have seen, exactly as in the photo on the right.




Circumcised boy in yellow and blue










Cocos Malays identify yellow and blue as the colors worn by the bride and groom at marriage.  
School colors
The boy who is circumcised wears these clothes too. As I described in a blog on circumcision ceremonies, the ritual 'officially' states that the boy is ready to marry (although in practice this is delayed for several years at least).

Yellow, or more specifically gold, is an auspicious colour in many Malay cultures. 

Yellow and blue are also the colors of the school and its students' uniforms. 

Aside from the yellow and blue, it's possible, as my blog on symbolism speculates, that the jukung symbolizes the phalus or fertility. The back part (stern) of the boat, where the steering plank (rudder) connects, is called the konek (foreskin).

The boat is thus connected with with getting married and producing offspring. I think these two goals remain central to Cocos Malay culture, even as the place of the jukung changes.


Returning to shore after the jukung race, part of 2014  Hari Raya celebrations


History of Jukung

Van der Jagt visited the islands in 1829 and wrote:
 Kaijoe Korongang . is not so plentiful, is hard and is used by Mr. Ross in the construction of light open boats, a purpose for which it is most suitable (Gibson-Hill, "Documents", 1952, p. 152). 

Perhaps these "light open boats" are the forerunners of Cocos Malay jukung.  

FitzRoy, about his 1836 visit with Charles Darwin, wrote "A party of men go in a light boat and look for a fine turtle in some shallow place". About this of the boats, John Clunies-Ross I complained in the "Preface" about the " the tear and wear of the boat upon the sharp and jagged coral". I assume that they are talking about jukung here, but we can't be sure. 

Thursday, 31 July 2014

Hari Raya: Evenings and Days

Celebrations mark the end of the Muslim fasting month. The second day is when the fun and games begin.


Henna on the fingertips and decorating the back of the hand


Hari Raya literally means "Day of Celebration". However the celebrations, marking the end of the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan, continue for several days. Days are calculated as beginning at sunset (not midnight or dawn as in European traditions). I've already detailed evening 1 and day 1. This included some pretty serious stuff.  In this blog, I look at evening 2 and day 2, when the celebrations set in.

Evening 2: Parties


Nek Huz (purple) gives speech
Guests listening to speech
The evening was marked by a large party. Several members of a local family celebrated birthdays. These had fallen during Ramadan but it apparently seemed appropriate to hold off on the celebrations until the fasting was complete. The celebration followed a typical jemput makan (eating get-together) pattern. The wives/mothers had prepared many dishes, which were arranged on long tables. Nek Huz gave a speech of thanks.

Yet more guests sitting patiently with plastic plates in hand
Then men got up and served up food for themselves on plates, followed by women. Then the same process was repeated for deserts.

Ladies first for the photo
A few of the men
After that we joined Nek Su and Ayesha for a smaller jemput makan (eating get-together) with members of Nek Su's family. The arrangement was similar, but this was styled as a BBQ. I'm not sure if there were speeches beforehand. Aside from the Nek Su's relatives, my family and a visiting nurse joined the festivities. We took some photos. The women were enthusiastic, but most of the men had something far more important to do. Discussing the jukung racing.

Day 2 Jukung racing and soccer

End of jukung race
Grandfathers enjoying the race
The long-awaited jukung racing started on the morning of day 2. Jukung are local sailing boats. I will write about this in another blog on jukung.

Resting at half time

Shot goes wide and high
The soccer was the first time I have seen the game played on Home Island. Some local boys had marked out the field using white sand. Two teams played.


Enjoying the spectacle

Evening 3

Evening 3 was a unique experience for Home Islanders and also for my family. A group from Malaysia who are staying on Home Island for a couple of months were performing Nasheed. This is a kind of lyrical acapella chanting accompanied with percussion.

Click here to see it live.
Nasheed group


Trestle tables covered with food prepared by wives and mothers

Waiting with plastic plates

More guests for Nasheed

Day 3

I was busy with administrative work on Day 3, so missed both the second jukung race and the second soccer game.

Evening 4


Evening 4 was marked by another big show at the Cyclone Shelter. A community dinner had been organised by PKPK, a local group. We missed this as we had been lucky enough to be invited to Nek, Pak and Mak Den's for dinner. 


Nek Den, Nek Sofia and Daud

Day 4

More jukung racing this morning. It is the third of five races, culminating on Saturday with the largest class of jukung.
Much talking and preparation before the jukung race

Jukung heading out to the middle of the lagoon, where the winds will be stronger.

  Before the evening, it was the boys' turn to play soccer.
Boys' soccer: blue plays yellow


Money given by the shire is given to the participants in the jukung races and soccer games. The boys were no exception--each were given a small amount of cash.


Evening 5

We went to Nek Sofia's house and tried papaya with sambal, and rost chicken and duck. All very delicious.

Day 5

More jukung racing with an exciting end. The footage was filmed from the jetty as was preparing to board the ferry back to West Island, bringing my Hari Raya experience to an end.

Analysis


I think it was Leach who observed that rituals tend to have periods that are apparently playful and apparently serious. A wedding ceremony is mostly serious where as a reception is mostly playful. Then within the serious period there are playful elements (at the ceremony there is a mock kerfuffle over the wedding rings) and within the playful period there are serious elements (at the reception there are tearful speeches).

From the sadness of the graveyard visit to the joy of Nasheed, this Hari Raya was a profound experience for me. Thank you to Home Islanders for sharing it with me.


Tuesday, 29 July 2014

Hari Raya / Eid al-Fitr / Idul Fitri: Initial Rituals


With the fasting month complete, Home Island residents take part in ritual meals, chanting, and an emotional visit to the graveyard.



Many homes are lit up for Hari Raya

Ramadan, the Muslim fasting month, ends with a festival. This is known as Eid al-Fitr (Romanized transcription of the Arabic); Idul Fitri (Malay version of the Arabic); or Hari Raya (a Malay term meaning "Day of Celebration"). Actually the celebrations last several days.


Hari Raya is as one person put it, "a very emotional time". Local residents mentioned feeling proud, excited, and sad. I think more specifically, accompanying rituals express, among other things, relief and triumph (that fasting has been completed);  forgiveness (towards others); penitence, remorse, and atonement (for wrongdoings); sadness, sorrow, longing, and acceptance (for those who are absent that have died). More generally Hari Raya expresses, celebration (of life); hope (for the new year);  and many other things.



Mak Sofia and Mak Kiki take some kids for a drive, taking in the sights and sounds around the village

When does Hari Raya begin?


Put simply, Hari Raya occurs at the end of the month of Ramadan. If that's enough for you, you can skip this section, which  is concerned with the technicalities of when Hari Raya occurs. It is technical because the factors determining when Hari Raya begins run a little counter-intuitively, if you're not familiar with the traditions.


In Islam the calendar follows the moon. Every lunar cycle (approximately 28 days), a new month begins. Ramadan lasts from the sighting of the new moon to the arrival of the next new moon. It can be difficult to determine when the new moon is sighted (it might appear that there is a slight crescent to some but not to others). This might differ between countries: as night falls on Cocos the crescent might not have appeared, but by the time night falls on Morocco it might have appeared. It also might different between 'sects' or streams of Islam: a 'modernist' might say "lets just follow science on this", whereas a 'traditionalist' might say "forget science, the important thing is can we see itor not". Thus, this year, Muslims different countries and in different streams of religious adherence started on either of two days.


It was also the case on Home Island, where some thought it began on June 28, others June 29. Nek Sofia explained to me, "The tunggu tahun people go by the calendar and started on the 28th. The rokiyah people go by the moon, when they see it, they start fasting". This is also the case with finishing the fast; this meant that some on Home Island finished their four weeks of fasting on July 26, others on July 27. 



When you can first make out a crescent on the moon, Ramadan begins
Another factor determining when Hari Raya begins is that for Muslims, the day begins at sunset as opposed to sunrise. This is the same for Jewish people ("And there was evening, and there was morning -- the first day"). In other words, first comes the evening and then comes the morning. Nevertheless, in what appeared to be the spirit of accommodation all began to celebrate on the afternoon July 27, in anticipation of the sun setting and Hari Raya beginning.


Ritual Meals before Sunset


Nek Su, sitting on blue stool, pauses during his speech

Nek Arena (midlle) and Pak Sofia (black)
The first set of Hari Raya rituals I observed were ritual meals called kenduri. These occurred prior to sunset while most were still fasting. Several of these occurred in different houses around the village. Nek Su invited me to Nek Sumila's house for one. Nek Su provided the welcoming speech. He explained that the ritual was in honor [I can't think of a better right now] of various members of his family. The imam (Nek Arena in blue), flanked by the vice-imam (Pak Sofia in black), then began chanting. This was accompanied by counterpoints from other participants (see below). As it was still considered fasting time, no one ate. Rather, once the chanting was completed, the male participants gathered food to take home. With this, the kenduri concluded.

Chanting during ritual meal

Nek Sofia recalled that when he was young, people finished the last day of fasting around noon, so Hari Raya celebrations used to start earlier in the day. This might explain the origin of these ritual meals before the conclusion of the fasting month.

After Breaking the Fast


Sunset marked the end of the fasting. I expected a lot of fanfare. Instead, it was the usual sunset prayers. Things then started to gather pace with, I gather, quite a few households holding an open house. I visited two houses. Nek Zamani, husband and wife, were kind enough to invite me to their house, where I enjoyed a delicious dinner.
Meal at Nek Zamani's

We then made our way to the house of Nek Sofia, husband and wife. As usual, they were exceedingly generous and put on a meal for us and other guests. This was my second dinner, but as the food was delicious, I kept going.


Members of Nek Sofia's-, Nek Den's- and my- family.

More chanting begins


By about 9pm more chanting began in the mosque. This went on until late at night, as far as I can tell.

Melawat Tanah Kubur--Visiting the Graveyard

It should be noted that Ramadan is not the last month of the Islamic year, but at this time there is a lot of reflection on the year that has passed and the that will come. Part of this is visiting the graveyard on the first morning of Hari RayaTwo things seemed to occur at the graveyard


A wife asks forgiveness of another wife, while their husbands do the same.

First was asking forgiveness. Men would approach other men; and women other women. According to Nek Sofia, he usually says something like:

Asking forgiveness
"Selamat Hari Raya, maaf zahir dan batin. Makan dan minum minta dihalalkan.  Kata yang tersilap atau tersalah, atau yang tertinggi, bahasa yang kasar yang tidak enak minta diampunkan. Mudah-mudahan dapat dijumpa lagi lain tahun. Semoga tuhan beri kesehetan dan keselamatan. Sampai jumpa lagi di tahun yang akan datang."
Taking a lot of license, this translates as:

"Happy Day of Celebration, sorry from the bottom of my heart. I hope the food and drinks [I have given you throughout the year] are accepted. My words that were wrong or misguided, or that were too [over the top?]; my language that was rude or not nice, I ask that they be forgiven. I hope we will meet again next year [after Ramadan]. I hope that God gives you health and safety. Until we meet again in the year that has begun..."
Such ritual speech is quietly performed while gently shaking hands. Eye contact is very limited. While one speaks, the other nods silently.


Praying at a grave

The other is related to the graves of deceased loved ones. Local residents clean these graves, spread flowers and water, and then perform prayers. Nek Sofia explained:
Praying at a grave
"we ask forgiveness for the dead and wish that they are put in the right place, which is hopefully heaven [not one of the other worlds between hell and heaven, where] if you're not a good person, you'll be stuck . We ask God to forgive them for what they have done. Most people read the Koran, some people just pray. They bring flowers to decorate the graveyards. Water to cool the place. When we were kids we believed they wore the flowers, drank the water, some people brought cigarettes and lollies, but now there's not that belief anymore. Now we believe that when you are dead you are gone. Some families still believe that. At the kenduri [ritual meals] they give Coca-Cola if they [the deceased] liked to drink that." 

Thus praying at the grave used to be directed at the spirit of the dead person, but now they prayers are directed at the Almighty, to intercede on the dead person's behalf. When it is a recently deceases person, the prayers are understandably tearful affairs.

I think a large part, if not all, of the community present on Home Island visited the graveyard that morning, so it was crowded at times.


Data and Interpretation


The writing and photos above provide some data surrounding the rituals of Hari Raya. Like other anthropologists, I use fieldwork to gather such data. The next step lies in analysis.

There are many different ways to analyse this data. Often the analysis takes a form that people from the culture being written about might not recognize. In any case, I'm going copy the way a famous anthropologists called Clifford Geertz might look at it. It's old fashioned anthropology, but I like to think of it as 'classic'...

Rituals express the way the world "really is" and the way people "should" relate to each other.

The Hari Raya rituals refer to two of the more important aspects of Home Island life; communing with dead ancestors and relatives and sharing of food.

Spirits of dead ancestors and relatives feature heavily. The feast for spirits of the dead  preceded the fasting month. In this feast, food was ostensibly provided for the spirits--now at the conclusion of fasting food is again given to them. As soon as fasting was complete, on the first morning of Hari Raya, residents visited the graveyard and pray for these spirits. While at the graveyard they also make ritualised apologies to family and friends. In a sense, they make peace with all residents; living and dead. Part of the apology is an expression of intent: that food and drink which has been shared has been accepted (dihalalkan).This brings us to the second important aspect.


Food and drink are a central theme, because, for the past month, Home Islanders have been ritually denied them--consuming them during daylight hours had been taboo. Yet throughout the fasting month, as indeed for the past year, Home Islanders have been constantly giving presents. The gifts most commonly take the form of food. This can be in the form of simple presents, but also in the context of ritual meals. Now, during Hari Raya rituals food and drink is shared, consumed and thrown away in proportions that are excessive compared to everyday usage. 

Both food sharing and the spirits of the dead may be connected. In rituals, when food is shared, it is also on offer for the spirits. Sharing food is, in the ritual context at least, a way of communing with the spirits. Sharing food is also a product of, and produces, community ties. Community, spirit and food are thus connected.

Monday, 28 July 2014

Visiting West Island--Cocos (Keeling) Islands

West Island, of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, has a population of around 200 people. They  mostly come from mainland Australia. These locals form an interesting and welcoming community, welcoming a constant stream of tradespeople, specialists and tourists. My family and I spent 10 days on West Island, joining the visitors who are the subject of this blog.


Tropika & Cocos Club  

Cocos Club during the day
Some locals and visitors like to have dinner at Tropika restaurant or visit the Cocos Club. I went to these destinations with my iPhone to provide some snapshots of visitors on the nights of July 23 and 24, 2014 . At the Cocos Club, which comprises a bar and a pool table, the mood was very relaxed with people of diverse ages inside and outside of the club; sunburnt tourists like me can enjoy a cool drink in the tropical breeze. Tropika restaurant is run by the Cocos Co-operative. It has a nightly buffet popular with hungry families. Now for some of the people I met...


John

John
John is from near Utrecht. He is employed by Geoscience Australia and remotes into Cocos from his Canberra office. His job involves maintaining and reading very sensitive instruments which measure air pressure. Eight of these machines on different parts of West Island measure atmospheric change, nuclear particles, and things like that. They can pick up nuclear blasts anywhere in the world. These are part of a global network of machines. The data collected goes back to the CTBTO (an international organisation preparing for a complete ban on nuclear tests) in Vienna. After MH370, the missing Malaysian Air flight, he checked the instruments for slight deviations in air pressure that a passing plane can cause, but in this case, nothing turned up. After work, John is taking kite surfing lessons on this visit. This is his second time on Cocos:
"I hope to be back in three months' time...love it, yeah it's awesome; the fact that it's an island y'know and there's nothing to do except the marine life." 

Steven

Steven with his 'doof-doof' shirt. Kelly, pictured
in the background playing pool, was on my laptop and wrote

"Kelly shooting awesome pool in the background,
I believe she is a legend on Island." I'm in no position to disagree.
I met Steven at the Cocos Club, playing pool and hanging out with some local and tourist friends. His 'doof doof' shirt, as he calls it, lights up in response to loud noises; many of them were whoops of joy when he or his playing partner sunk a ball. He was very much the life of the party  His Mum is from Singapore and migrated to Christmas Island, where she began working for an airline operating out of Indonesia. 
Steven was born on Christmas Island and raised there for 18 years. He always has seen his calling in the airline industry, especially as cabin crew. So he began working his way up, literally. From Christmas Island as a travel consultant to his current position as a Virgin cabin supervisor. This position, as I understand it, means he's in charge of the flight stewards:
Helping the concerned family
Christmas will always be home and Cocos is pretty much like being at home...I've been flying up here for 3 and a half years. Crew love coming up here due to the lifestyle. Those [crew] who come up here are more community oriented--we don't need to be within network range.
The next day I met Steven at "Tropika" the local evening restaurant. He was speaking fluent Malay with a Cocos Malay worker Vivian. He downplayed his language abilities, but the next day when one of the elderly Home Island residents was flying to Perth for a serious operation, he was there to help the family by drawing on his Malay.



Kevin and Paul

Kevin and Paul
Kevin and Paul are doctors originating from New Zealand. Kevin has been living in Perth, where he started kitesurfing around 2002-2003. At that time, kitesurfing was a relatively new pastime, being only a few years old. It was quite dangerous then as a lot of the technologies which have subsequently made the activity safer had not been introduced. He experienced kitesurfing on Cocos relatively early. "A guy named Ian from Perth had a windsurfing shop in Perth and delved into kitesurfing and set up a camp on West Island". He "put up a canvas top . We were a group of 18 [and] were new to kiting. We had to share the kites". At that stage of technology there "were only two lines" meaning you could control the direction you traveled but not the power. "Once you were hooked in"to the kite through the harness "you couldn't get out". At the time no-one really knew what they were doing. Sometimes they got dragged several kilometers and had to drag the gear all the way back. It was called the "walk of shame". Paul reunited with Kevin on a visit in Perth  "We went to uni together, studying medicine in Dunedin [New Zealand]. I knew these guys [who I studied with] lived in Perth." They discovered that they shared a passion for kitesurfing. As a result, they are taking this holiday on Cocos together.

Shane

Shane
Shane is on island as a "subby" (subcontractor) doing maintenance of the air conditioners. He works with Hooch. Hooch lives on Christmas Island and does some aircon contracting on Cocos. He started in the marine industry being a decky (deckhand) on a prawn trawler in Western Australia's northwest.  
This is his second time on Island. He's basically here for the week. Playing golf (Scrubbers) is a once-in-a-lifetime thing. "love the place, love the water, love the marine environment; the fishing, spearfishing, four-wheel driving that sort of thing". It's also the community life that he likes. "When you come to these isolated areas, the community has a major role. You meet someone you say hello. You get in the smaller townships there's totally different".

Rosemary and Ben

Rosemary and Ben
Rosemary is returning to Cocos Islands after two decades of being away. Her ex-husband Peter Greaves used to teach here. She is delighted to have brought her son with her. I asked what she like about living here in the early 1990s. She responded that it was the:
"Simple pleasures; you made fun out of nothing. We used to have dinner parties on the runway and the siren went off (for an approaching plane) we would pick up the table and run to the side. There was met [meteorological] bureau and they had a flat roof so we had a dinner party on that". I asked her what made her bring her son, Ben with her: " I just wanted to bring my son back it was really important. Because Ben had seen a list of photos of DI [Direction Island], and him as a smiley happy baby. He was 21/2 when we left and Emma [my daughter] was almost 5. This is twenty years later." Rosemary explained that Ben has been really impressed by the experience: "he's just saying I had no idea of how good it is. On Direction Island today I was a bit frightened because The Rip [a famous snorkeling spot] was really was fast but we saw sharks and reef fish; so you know his mother thing. I'm so lucky my 22-year-old wants to travel with me. I'm in Busselton teaching and he's doing an electrical apprenticeship in Perth without his mother."


Scroungers Golf

'Scroungers' posing on the runway



Drinking and laughing took
precedence over golf shot accuracy
Aside from the Cocos Club, I took part in Scroungers' golf. This is a Wednesday evening institution. Locals and visitors alike hack their way through nine holes of the 'golf course' such as it is. More than twenty of us played, writing our names on our balls. We formed four teams and played 'Ambrose', namely the game in which all team members hit from the best-positioned ball of your team. The game was full of mock competition with players cursing themselves and others. Everyone brought beer and other such beverages in cool bags. The greens are astroturf (artificial grass), and the fairways are rough. Twice you need to drive over the airport runway. But not even the arrival of an RAAF (Australian air force) plane could interrupt the merriment.



John, the Scroungers organizer (pictured holding onto flag), takes to his heels as golf balls start whizzing around the green.

Summary

This blog is not anthropology, just a little insight into the many people who travel to the island for short stays. As stated, they are welcomed by the local community. In the future, I'd like to write more about this local community. This is because, although part of the same atoll, there are many differences between the cultures of West Island and Home Island.